Oger sits in a bowl between the hills of Mesnil and Cramant, and the chardonnay in this village basks in the extra warmth. Jean-Charles Milan is the 5th generation of the family to direct this estate; it was founded in 1864 by Jean Milan, her great-great-grandfather. Today Milan controls six hectares of vines averaging 43 years, spread over 42 different parcels, all in the grand cru of Oger.

Oger received its rightful Grand cru status in 1984, when that last, vital percentage point arrived. The village, which stands almost entirely upon Belimnite chalk, is often forgotten among its more famous neighbours. The difference between Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger is mostly due to Oger’s much younger vines, but the wines have a classic Chardonnay character. The best grapes come from the same long stretch of southeasterly slopes as Avize and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger.